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Esxence – The Scent of Excellence : Head perfumer Luz Vaquero Spills the Beans

Last week Esxence – The Scent of Excellence’, an international event dedicated to niche fragrances and artistic perfumery, where history and tradition join innovation and research, took place in Milan.

Over four days, more than 7,000 people from all around the world – including entrepreneurs, perfumers, fragrance houses, retailers and distributors – gathered to celebrate the universe of perfumery and discover the latest trends and innovations in the sector.

From Iberchem, our head perfumer Luz Vaquero flew from Murcia to the fashion capital to see what the fuss was all about.

What was the first thing you noticed when you got inside the venue?
The first thing I noticed was how the place was oozing with creativity. I was particularly fascinated by the stories behind each perfume, where people got their inspiration from. Many brands had amazing stories to tell, which were well reflected in their creations.

What brands most caught your attention?
I really liked the brand Soul Couture for their authenticity. Their story is genuine and inspiring, and it shows in their fragrances. The Italian brand also caught my attention for their elegance and the precision of their compositions. I also enjoyed the perfumes of Sarah Baker. They’re dynamic and elegant, just like Sarah herself, who I got the chance to talk to.

Is there one story in particular that surprised you?
Actually, there were two that really surprised me. Firstly, that of Map of the Heart by Sarah Blair and Jeffrey Darling. Their story is pure and beautiful, and their creations are as honest and inspiring. I also fell for Olfacto Luxury Fragrances by Amouyé Patrick Djadji. These fragrances are inspired by traditions and elements of the Ivory Coast, where the brand has its roots. Its creations are very original and make you want to travel.

Did you notice any trends in terms of raw materials?
Without a doubt patchouli. This raw material is definitely making a comeback in niche fragrances, at least in the ones I saw at Esxence. While some combinations were somewhat traditional (patchouli/citruses, patchouli/musk), others really surprised me – for instance, patchouli/leather or patchouli/iris.

Will you go again next year?
Of course! I’m eager to discover new brands and new scents. Esxence also gives us the opportunity to speak directly with the creators, which is simply fantastic. I’m also looking forward to see what all the brands I mentioned will be showcasing this time next year.